Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous road noise. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.

It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with round purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city downtown.

"I've seen people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's organized a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Vineyards Around the World

So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines with views of and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help urban areas stay greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve open space from construction by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units inside cities," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Polish Variety

Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Activities Throughout the City

Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from this land."

Terraced Gardens and Natural Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create quality, natural wine," she states. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various wild yeasts come off the surfaces into the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Environments and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on

Daniel Logan
Daniel Logan

Maya is a certified personal trainer and nutritionist dedicated to helping others reach their fitness goals through science-backed methods.